Goncalves Faria, Bairrada Vinho Branco 2015

The 2015 Gonçalves Faria Branco is a field blend of Bical and Maria Gomes, fermented in stainless steel and aged for 18 months in old 1,000-liter Mosel fuders. It comes in at 12% alcohol. Sourced from 80-year-old vines, this is full bodied for the region and mouth coating, with a slightly tart edge. This gorgeous white shows both concentration and structure. The acidity on this should allow it to age—Dirk Niepoort said to me that it would undoubtedly go 20 years. It may do better, that fresh edge keeping it alive and lively while it acquires complexity. At this point, it really needs a couple of years in the cellar to calm down and show a little more harmony. It will unquestionably drink better around 2020. This is a high-quality Branco that might be entitled to an uptick if it develops as well as I suspect.